1 (edited by NPB_EST.1979 2012-09-27 08:48:17)

Topic: ABR bridge "upgrade"???

Hi all,

I'm writing this topic to get your preferences on Gibson bridges.

Back in the mid 90's I got rid of my Nashville bridge from my '72 Les Paul and '79 Explorer in favor of an ABR-1 bridge so I could tighten the tailpiece to the body. People "say" these are better bridges and an "upgrade" from Nashville bridges.

The ABR bridge wires are noisy and rattles. the retainer wire only loosely holds the saddle pieces in there, and I'm not convinced it is truly an upgrade from the more sturdy Nashville bridge. The saddle pieces can even slide forward using your finger cause the wire won't keep it in place. On other guitars, I've seen the wire hump or bow up far enough touch the strings affecting tone and sustain.

One of the reasons for the ABR-1 was so when you drop the tailpiece down all the way, the string won't prematurely hit the side of the bridge before it touches the saddle. I've since noticed that if you topwrap your strings, you can get away with still using a Nashville bridge to avoid this bottoming out.

Part of the reason I believe people say ABR-1 bridges are the way to go is because they are a vintage design. I think it is a flawed design, however, for reasons stated above.

I've since fixed by two ABR-1 bridges by having the wire retainers replaced with tighter ones. I've seen other people bend the wire down in between each bridge screw to try and keep the parts from moving. I don't think I'd ever swap out a perfectly working Nashville bridge again.

what do you think?

- Nic from Detroit... posting on JB's Forum since 6-2-2006
Ask me about my handwound Great Lakes Guitar Pickups
Since 2010, Bonamassa fans have taken advantage of my JB friend discount = my cost + shipping. cool

Re: ABR bridge "upgrade"???

I've got a Callaham ABR and its great rock solid saddles and no wire retainer.

They aren't cheap though - in my opinion a bridge is only likely to be an upgrade if it is significantly better built / more expensive than the original equipment otherwise it's just cosmetics.

Re: ABR bridge "upgrade"???

Nic,
Just picked up a Collings I-35 and they use the TonePros AVR-II on their guitars.  I've only had the guitar a week but from everything I done with it the bridge & tailpiece are solid.  Also there is more travel room on the TonePros saddles so intonation adjustment shouldn't be as frustrating...we'll see.

Here is a link to their site:
http://www.tonepros.com/products/

Pretty pricey though at about $65 to $70.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Re: ABR bridge "upgrade"???

Unless your going for absolute vintage authenticity I would go with the TonePros.

Re: ABR bridge "upgrade"???

+1 on TonePros. I really like the Faber ABR-1 as well. It is pretty close vintage-wise.

Re: ABR bridge "upgrade"???

Nashville was supposed to be an improvement but I think the anchors and the screws add up to more parts more stack tolerance which is bad.  ABR-1 does have that stupid wire.  To me the Nashville bridge is over thought.  I would at the bare minimum go with the tone pros just so you can lock everything down tight.  The Callaham ABR has a Nashville kit that has parts machined out of steel so you can have a stud just like the ABRs have but a base the size of the anchor.  To me cast parts suck and I've proven this to myself with my trusty Stratocaster with the Steel block I milled out to fill in the pocket.  I think Aluminum and Brass are great improvements over stock but steel is the way to go.  My strat just feels alive with it.  The old Cast part was ok only because I had the bridge flat to the top of the body, but with the steel block harmonics were easier and stood out clear as a bell.  BTW  Callaham has set screws just like the tone pros to lock the bridge in place and they offer stop tail pieces now.