Here's an idea that works GREAT with just about any modern tube amp.
Try swapping V1 (the first PreAmp Tube) from a 12AX7 to a lower gain tube. Any of these will work: 12AY7, 12AT7, 12AU7. I think there are a couple more variations, too.
These all have less gain than a 12AX7. And the lower gain will help to "Clear Up" the Overdrive and Distortion of the amp. You can swap the PreAmp Tubes, without any kind of Re-Biasing, etc. It's a quick. inexpensive, very useful technique.
Changing the PreAmp Tube will also affect the "Feel" and Response of the amp. It may take a little while to get used to the changes. You'll probably have to try different EQ settings, etc.
Another thing: There is a LOT of Tonal variation in how you set the Amp's Volume and it's Master Volume. So, if you typically run the Preamp Higher, and the Volume lower, try the opposite technique. Try to get more of the Power Tubes' Tone. Less of the Preamp's Tone. This is the "Real Deal". Power Tubes ARE what Tube Amps are all about. If the actual Volume isn't at Noon or higher, you're not really playing the Amp. You're playing a glorified Pedal. Give it a try.
And yeah, that Boost button is pretty nasty!
Another thing: Maybe you'd really dig an Eminence Texas Heat for a new Speaker.
Early 80's 1957 U.S. Vintage Reissue Stratocaster (Surf Green)-Warmouth Soloist Pearly Gates Neck, Pearly Gates Bridge- Larrivee D-03 (Mahogany/ Spruce)
Carmen Ghia Head- Marshall 112 Cab W/G12H 30 or Custom 4 X 6v6 Head or Budda Twinmaster Plus Head-Traynor 212 Cab w/Eminence Texas Heats.
Mo'D-Eternity-Blues Pro- Timmy-BYOC Chorus/Vibrato- TC SCF- Korg DT 10 Pedal Tuner